Journal Volume 30 No. 2 Dad First-person narratives of big-wave surfing’s

First-person narratives of big-wave surfing’s heaviest feats

Foiled nose to tail

without transferring onto clothes

haunting style

Features inside the book offer cuts that span the gamut in craft

Journal Volume 30 No. 2 Dad First-person narratives of big-wave surfing’sJournal Volume 30 No. 2 On the cover: Mid morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975. Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subjects transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s. Spot studies also abound, including the history of big wave surfing at South Africa's Sunset Reef and the risk versus reward